AT Section hike 2023 part 2: Fontana Dam to Clingman’s Dome

Kathy and I headed down the tremendous descent from our shelter to Fontana Dam Marina. It was an arduous descent- took us most of the day. It was over 11 miles until we finally arrived. We would see the Fontana Lake and think we were close, only to hike away from it. The trail was a series of very long downward switch backs. There were some large and cool fungi growing there though, near the trail that was interesting to see.

Kathy also saw a bear. 🧸She was ahead of me a few hundred yards and yelled frantically and loudly

GINGER !!!!!! 🐻 Bear!!!!

I tried to quickly get to her. She was afraid of the bear, but it quickly ran away.

Once we finally reached the marina area, we were beat. There was a less than 2 mile stretch to the “Fontana Hilton” and the parking lot to where Kathy’s truck was parked. However, we were so tired, Kathy hitched a ride with a guy that worked there to her truck. She drove back to get me.

Kathy and I went to the lodge. I had a room reserved for 2 nights. We cleaned up, then went to eat in the restaurant. Kathy then drove to her friend’s house, which wasn’t far away, where she had her camper. I enjoyed javing Kathy with me! Also, it was wonderful to have a real bed and a shower! I did a great deal of sleeping the next couple of days! I will miss my great hiking partner, though. Thanks Kathy! Hope we can do it again.

The next day, while waiting for my next hiker buddies to arrive, I went down into the village and did my laundry and visited the camp store. Suzie, Kris, Carla, Kenaniah and Louis came. We had dinner together that evening, then the guys, including Kenaniah, my grandson, stayed in the Fontana Hilton. The “Hilton” as it is nicknamed, is one of the nicer shelters. It has a real shower house close by. Also has power stations one can character electronics. There’s a grill there and picnic tables. We girls stayed in the lodge.

The following day, we headed for the Smoky Mountain National Park southern terminus, which was just across the Fontana Dam. We said goodbye to my daughter-in-law Carla and my grandson, Kenaniah, who was sad about leaving his Dad. One day, he will be hiking with us! He’s just not quite ready yet- he was only 7 years old at the time.

The Smokies were hard! Even with my trail legs, I found it challenging to hike the less than 6 miles to the camping area. (We climbed from 1862 ft elevation to 3736 ft elevation in under 6 miles). It was straight up from the get- go and still climbing.

We climbed up the Shuckstack firetower and enjoyed the spectacular views. Onward we went. Finally, we reached the campground at Birch Spring Gap. We had difficulty finding enough room for our tents. Suzie, Kris and I made it work- all 3 tents in one tenting area, overlapping some of our lines. Louis had a hammock.

We met some interesting folk in the Smokies. One couple was from Switzerland, section hiking the GSNP. There were several others there too. We sat around a campfire and talked while we ate our evening meal. Afterwards, we hung our food on the bear cables.

We had no rain at all in the Smokies. It was pretty warm and very dry. We were able to cool off at night. The next day, we stopped at Mollie’s Ridge shelter to rest. ( elevation 4585 ft) Then on to the next shelter, Russel Field, where we tanked up on water. We were now headed up, up, and yes up to our final destination of the day, Spence Field Shelter at 4917 ft elevation.

Are we there yet?!

What a strenuous, most difficult climb! It really worked on us mentally. Beautiful, yes, but many rocks and roots, and precarious areas of trail one couldn’t avoid. This was my hardest section to hike, ever!

One of the coolest things though about doing something hard, and you are pressing in for inner strength to do it, God always comes through. I saw this tree:

I was reminded how much God loves me and I really can do all things through Christ who gives me strength, even when I think I can’t go on. He helped me to do that last mile and boy! Was I glad to see that shelter!

The next day was better! We hiked to Rocky Top with excellent views at 5440 ft elevation.

We ate lunch out there and enjoyed one another’s company. Some other women hikers joined us up there. It was an outstanding, moving experience, seemingly being on top of the world with friends and family.

More Rocky Top

We drug ourselves away from there to a technically difficult part of the trail descending to Derrick Knob Shelter. We had a nice evening, enjoying other hikers as they came into camp. We only hiked 6 miles but a rewarding day, and a needed break from the tough miles.

The next day, we hiked on to have lunch at Silers Bald Shelter. This shelter was investigated by Louis and Kris. Its frame seemed like it was giving way- was very old and was leaning in places. Being carpenters, they made some observations about the cabin’s current condition.

Some of these shelters have been here awhile! Nevertheless, it was a place of refuge in these mountains , and am sure of it could talk had stories to tell of the vagabond hikers who stayed there.

Onward! Since we were behind in our mileage due to the difficulty of the trail, we turned off at mile 200.2. Yes! 200 miles! We headed to Clingman’s Dome ( now called Kuwohi), because Kris and Louis were on a time limit and had to get back home.

The forest the last few miles was absolutely stunning. It was like you entered into another world. It was full of moss and oddly shaped trees bent and twisted from years of wind and weather. Beauty all around!

But wait, there’s more! Stay tuned to part 3 of this wonderful AT section hike 2023! My next blog will take you on with Suzie and I as we adventure on.